Le sweatshirt

S’il est une pièce iconique du vestiaire casual masculin qui revient particulièrement en force en ce moment au sein des collections, c’est bien le sweatshirt. Simple, confortable et très utile, il s’utilise d’abord dans un cadre sportif mais avant les années 70/80, il n’était pas rare de le voir porter avec une paire de derby ou de penny loafers, et un pantalon à pinces!Arkansas_cardinals_football_1909

Comme à notre habitude, nous allons revenir sur l’histoire de ce vêtement avant de vous proposer une petite sélection.

Nous l’avons vu à de nombreuses reprises, certaines pièces du menswear ont des origines assez floues, et plusieurs marques se disputent leur héritage. Le sweatshirt ne fait pas exception et il est bien difficile de départager Russell Athletic et Champion (Knickerbocker Knitting Company) quant à la création du premier sweatshirt.1968-guy

Russell Athletic est un fabricant de vêtements américains créé au début du 20ième siècle en Alabama par Benjamin Russell. Plutôt spécialisée dans le sous-vêtement, l’entreprise s’est développée de manière assez considérable devenant, vers 1915 un acteur économique majeur de la région. C’est dans les années 20 qu’aurait germé l’idée du sweatshirt. En effet, le fils de Russell, joueur universitaire de football américain, fait part à son père combien les tricots de laine en vogue à l’époque n’étaient pas pratiques pour les joueurs en sueur après leur match ou entrainement. Ben Junior conseilla à son père de modifier le haut d’un uniforme syndical, fabriqué en coton épais, afin d’obtenir un haut loose, confortable et dépourvu de col. Ben Russell se lance alors dans la fabrication des premiers sweat en coton (sweat, sueur en anglais) qui connaissent un succès immédiat. L’entreprise Russell Athletic fabrique encore des sweatshirts aujourd’hui, mais plus aux Etats-Unis.1931-sweet

De son côté, la Knickerbocker Knitting Company – dont nous avions parlé à propos de la création du flocage au sein d’un article consacré à des pièces vintage – développe divers brevets à partir de la fin des années 1910 afin d’améliorer les vêtements sportifs. Ainsi, le reverse weave (« tissage inversé ») va permettre d’améliorer considérablement les sweatshirts en leur conférant une grande solidité. KKC lance également des jerseys de football américain et les premiers hoodies (sweat à capuche).CollegeSweatersA1uncle_frank_sweatshirt

Même si le sweatshirt connut un succès immédiat et durable, porté entre autres par les sportifs et les militaires, il ne devint vraiment « tendance » qu’à partir des années 60 grâce, notamment, au film La Grande Evasion avec l’inévitable Steve McQueen qui le porte à merveille avec sa flight jacket A2. Sur les campus américains, les étudiants le portent alors généralement floqué aux lettres de leur club ou de leur université (à la manière des varsity jackets) avec une chemise en oxford, un pantalon en laine, une paire de bluchers ou de loafers, et le sweatshirt est alors une pièce iconique du style Ivy. Qu’il s’agisse du simple sweatshirt ou de son pendant à capuche, le hoodie, le succès de ce vêtement ne se dément pas, et si les rappeurs notamment américains se le sont appropriés au cours des années 80/90, il revient aujourd’hui sur le devant de la scène menswear par le biais de marques dont certaines sont extrêmement pointues et proposent des sweat très bien réalisés.the great escapenewman_gettyDe fait quasi toutes les marques masculines tendent à inclure dans leur collection une déclinaison de ce basique.

A défaut d’établir une liste exhaustive indigeste, nous vous suggérons cependant quelques marques dignes d’intérêt qui proposent des sweatshirts qui tiennent la route.

Champion, la ligne classique est toujours abordable et convenable. Au delà des vintages made in USA qu’il est toujours possible de trouver, on peut aussi se tourner vers les collaborations de la marque avec Todd Snyder et Nanamica.Champion 1Todd Snyder Nanamica

Loopwheeler, sans doute le meilleur rapport qualité prix du marché proposé par ce fabricant spécialiste japonais.Loopwheeler

Reigning Champ, un très bon spécialiste canadien.Reigning Champ

Buzz Rickson’s, spécialiste japonais de reproduction militaire qu’on ne présente plus.

Buzz AF

 The Real McCoy’s et Joe McCoy, les clones un peu plus chers de Buzz.McCoy

John Elliott + Co, marque basée à Los Angeles portant le nom de son designer qui propose des basiques revisités à la silhouette modernisée (manches très ajustées, zip latéraux favorisant le reverse layering). Une marque qui a conquis un des fondateurs de ce blog depuis ses débuts en 2012. JE

Interview with Réginald-Jérôme de Mans Part I

We are proud to present to you the first part of an interview with Réginald-Jérôme de Mans, menswear writer, bespoke connoisseur and inveterate seeker. Have a look at his tumblr here.

FTDF: When did you get interested in menswear and elegance, was it a family thing?

RJ: No. My parents and family were and are interested in value for money and finding a deal.  So some of that filtered down to me, in that I was always interested in finding something undiscovered, a gem in the rough or something that in the right context would be interesting to wear.  However, the concept of value that they have is rather more sane than the way I apply it – knowing that the only clothing that is timeless is clothing that is not completely of any one time.  A bespoke suit from a good tailor today is now so expensive that it will never pay for itself, so a large part of its value has to be in how the wearer thinks it makes him feel.  That is extremely difficult to justify to anyone else.  So my family tolerates my clothing compulsions, but doesn’t claim to share them.

I first got interested in clothes as a teenager, and not initially for the clothes themselves but for what they could communicate. A large part of the anxieties of early adolescence are about belonging and rejecting. Clothes were part of how one could signal, or pose as, belonging, as well as communicate rejection of various ways of thinking, class signifiers, and attitudes.  You could do that through wearing clothes diametrically opposed in style, color and so on to the clothes of those groups, or through appropriation, mockery of those clothes and attitudes, even through outdoing them with exaggeration.  How do you outdo prep? By wearing clothes that are actually well made and elegant.

FTDF: If you started from scratch how did you gather knowledge, from books or directly online?

RJ: Haha, given that I started learning about clothing as a teenager, the Internet was barely more than a gleam in the eye of some guys at DARPA at the time.  I gathered knowledge of one particular clothing aesthetic osmotically, being immersed in it but not of it at a high school where the greedy and grasping upper middle classes of the American northeast held sway in the last gasp of what was prep, in all its judgmental, insecure and plangent pink and green glory. I knew I wanted to aspire to something else. That something else could only be gleaned from magazines and hinted at, in stylized form, in movies – least imaginatively of course through the Bond movies, the gateway drug for so many of us in men’s clothing.  Later, with tongue firmly in cheek, I looked to Terence Stamp in Modesty Blaise and Patrick Macnee as John Steed in the black-and-white episodes of The Avengers, but also to David Hemmings and Terence Stamp in their 1960s movies, and so on.  Magazines like the very short-lived Esquire Gentleman introduced me to old 1960s and 1970s icons like Stamp and Bryan Ferry, men who loved clothing for its own sake after having adopted certain styles of dress when commercial success allowed them to live in the same neighborhoods (literally – the Albany apartment building in Stamp’s case and Primrose Hill in Ferry’s) as English gentlemen without affecting and assimilating the bundle of fucked-up class-ridden attitudes that such gentlemen may have carried.  It’s not a coincidence that a film like Peter Medak’s The Ruling Class came out at the same time that Terence Stamp was setting up in Piccadilly.T.Stamp Patrick Macnee Bryan FerryReading magazines that happened to discuss clothing was easier to justify mentally than purchasing books about clothing, although I ended up doing so finally, beginning with Alan Flusser’s Style and the Man and Bernhard Roetzel’s Gentleman: A Timeless FashionEven at the time I bought them, there was very little about men’s clothing – classic men’s clothing and traditional bespoke – online.  So those two books might as well have been the Dead Sea Scrolls of how to dress, with other writing of any quality on men’s clothing being almost nonexistent and certainly undiscovered.  A large number of us early adopters thus came to the internet heavily informed and influenced by those two writers and their attitudes, particularly Flusser’s on the drape cut in bespoke suits and Roetzel’s very German, more English than the English, fixation on the English makers like Drake’s, the shirt shops of Jermyn Street, the tailors of Savile Row, and so on. What made those two books so important was not just the lack of other comprehensive books on men’s clothing, or websites discussing it, but that the other source, magazines, are by their nature topical and superficial, and generally ill-informed.  Reading between the lines over a number of years, a perceptive reader might have gleaned that there were classic makers of beautiful and quality garments out there, but that message was drowned out by whatever magazine editors had to market that month, not to mention that most people writing about men’s clothing in periodicals have no idea of quality, construction or history and no way to evaluate critically (if they even want to) whatever press release or marketing horseshit they are rewriting under the guise of an article.Flusser RoetzelAt that time, around the debut of this millennium, there were a few very general websites on classic men’s clothing that were little more than directories of tailors, shirtmakers and shoemakers, as well as the website of the infamous defrocked priest Francis Bown, whose mercenary business model for his website about bespoke appears to have been rather ahead of its time, given the great success today of some of the most prominent French and English clothing bloggers.  And again, given that it was the only information out there, all of us read it.

FTDF: What did you seek when you first went on forums such as Style Forum?

RJ: Quite simply, what I was seeking when I first joined an internet clothing forum was the whereabouts of my first tailor. At that time, the few tailors, shirtmakers and others who knew how to use the Internet to create a presence had something of a first-mover advantage, in that they were able to get the attention of people who had started searching online for information about suits, shirtmaking, and the rest, and they were able to engage with potential customers online and make their work immediately accessible.  That was an enormous change.  Previously, those of us who wanted to learn about bespoke and classic clothing had to soak up the few small drops of information, mostly garbled, that would occasionally drizzle out in magazines and the rare book. Exclusivity was not just physical. I note that a more unfortunate consequence was that those first movers, if they did reach out to potential customers online or through their websites, also had the opportunity to bad-mouth their perceived competitors and build themselves up, perhaps undeservedly. And because there were no other real sources of information out there, they could get away with that for a while.Mies joka piirsi mallin tyylikkäästä miehestäI had discovered my tailor through a website he had created online for a much better-known, royally-appointed tailor whom he was associated with at the time.  He had been authorized to represent that tailor on visits abroad. So he was able to gain customers on the reputation of that better-known tailor. He had reached out to me in response to an email inquiry through his website and met me for an initial visit, but shortly thereafter I was unable to reach him by email or phone, so I ended up joining my first clothing forum in order to ask if anyone knew of this fellow and how to reach him. I then got sucked into the discussions and interchange.

Initially I was afraid to join Styleforum. It seemed much more intense than the forum I had joined initially: in attitude, in volume of information, in give and take. Over the years it became the forum I spent the most time on, in part because for a number of those years it was well moderated with just the right level of member autonomy, and a great number of well-informed posters who came to talk about clothes and stayed, for a while, for the snark, schadenfreude and time-wasting in-jokes (you like it, the lamb?). I learned, in that through the forums I gained a lot of information and then I went out and empirically evaluated it, through my own experiences as a customer in various cities and at various makers and shops. That atmosphere changed at one point, but things always do.  We all have our own reasons for moving on, anyway. I had valued the byplay and the supposed relationships I had with a few posters I interacted with frequently on that forum. It was healthier that I stopped posting.

FTDF: What made you want to write about menswear?

RJ: As I mentioned above, posting on forums had not just been to exchange information in a constructive manner. It was a time-suck and a way to dissipate things that I may have wanted to say in a deeper and more constructive way. When I had the opportunity to write more focused things, at greater length than in a forum post, I found it much more gratifying than participating in the rat race of forum life, particularly as so much of it had become, more crassly and overtly, about consumerism and flaunting that consumerism. I wanted, and want, things that have some meaning to me, and those are the things I wanted to write about, to examine that feeling, that meaning. It gave me the opportunity for synthesis, to do something constructive with my obsessions, to interact with the internal drivers for why I wanted certain things and what made them special to me.  In contrast, so many forum exchanges seem to be about why someone else is wrong.  And it was validating to get feedback from people who found something of interest or value in what I had to say.

I lost my soapbox when my Svengali refocused his website.  I’m currently heading back to so-called old media and working on a book that will deal with some of my favorite topics, the history of wonderful places, and hopefully will say new things, so it’s not going to be just a rehash of old blog posts.  And it will probably be the only men’s clothing book ever written to contain a reference to Troll 2. My agent is very patient, thank God.  Writing a book has made me realize that even a blog post on a particular topic could get away with being topical and making throwaway references whereas in print, there’s a need to provide more context and background information since I can’t count on readers to be fully up on the in-jokes and so on.FTDF: How do you feel about the term « iGent »?

RJ: I am taken aback at how this term, initially derogatory, has been appropriated with pride by many people who don’t appear to know what it meant. What made an iGent an Internet Gentleman was that he was educated by the Internet, and that secondhand knowledge upheld his pretentions to being a gentleman, whatever that is in this day and age.

In other words, the Internet Gentleman was someone who went online and talked about clothes and actually believed the half-truths and misremembrances that other people told them, without actually using personal experience or independent, critical thought. They were emblematic of the downsides of the growth of Internet discussion forums:  people who followed invented trends like that of CBD (Conservative Business Dress) or soporific ties, without even knowing what the word soporific meant.  My friend Nicholas Antongiavanni, who uses the username Manton, started a “Soporific Tie Porn” thread on Styleforum years ago after I told him some of his new ties were soporific, that is, sleep-inducing.  Now enterprising eBay sellers use the term in their auctions!

One of the strange phenomena on the Internet forums was that credulousness.  Of course, in the beginning we all hoped we could believe each other, because it seemed that for the first time people, actual consumers, could share and pool their experiences across great distances and divides. In the end, it has meant the creation of new cults of personality as boys with the most toys can flaunt their newest acquisitions and, in some unfortunate cases, attempt to impress their tastes and prejudices on their sometimes all-too-accepting readers. What I mean is that many, many people online did not or do not consider the source or use their own personal experiences to come to independent conclusions, when they subscribe to what someone else online has told them. There are many, many examples – the minor tempest in a teapot around the drawbacks of gemmed and Goodyear-welted shoes versus hand-welted shoes, when in point of fact it’s incredibly difficult to find shoes that are actually hand welted, and almost always many, many times more expensive to buy or resole competently hand-welted shoes than well-made Goodyear-welted shoes. Or the recent debacle around a new tie brand that purportedly only used vintage tie fabrics. No one else appeared to stop to ask why those vintage fabrics hadn’t been used yet – they were hideous.  It wasn’t until the fellow behind it was caught out in numerous other lies and exposed on the forums that the iGents rallied against him.  

In addition, the Internet Gentleman was an Internet Gentleman because of an element of fantasy, even delusion – he was a gentleman in his own mind and only on the Internet, where his presence was as virtual and intangible as the nobility or accumulated prejudices or whatever else made him a gentleman. 

So to me, the iGents are not the new generation of elegants, any more than the cosplayers of the Chap movement are. As you have pointed out, though, the term has been appropriated as a badge of identification by many in that Internet subculture, the same way, I suppose, that furries and 4chanfappers have. And, as I myself pointed out in an article on them, if you know about the subculture, chances are you’re in it. Hypocrite lecteur, mon semblable, mon frère, as Baudelaire wrote in L’iGent de Paris or Assommons les iGents.

FTDF: What did you think of the not-yet known as IGent community back then and what do you think of it now?

RJ: As I wrote above, the term to me had meant someone who did not use critical or independent thought. By extension, that meant he was incapable of self-awareness or irony.  Now that the term has evolved and been appropriated to apparently mean anyone who discusses clothes on the Internet, I suppose we are capable of recognizing ourselves and laughing at ourselves and our pretentions. Still, despite having become a badge or a rallying cry, it carries a connotation of someone who lacks personal experience and perspective, who relies on hearsay and puts far too much faith in what someone else has told him about quality, and so on. Caveat lector, more than ever, since marketers, multinationals and anyone else have discovered how to use all forms of social media, including the supposedly consumer-empowering forums and blogs, to perpetuate the same sort of advertising that we thought we were fleeing from.

FTDF: How do you reflect on its evolution?

RJ: With bemusement. Now we need to be able to laugh at ourselves while using it. What it had meant, and what I had written about in my profile of the iGent, was a crowd of people believing that clothing makes them gentlemen, or taking stuff for free, or talking in stilted, ungrammatical formality that they believe is at the level of the clothes they are talking about.  Someone who trusted but didn’t verify. Someone who didn’t think for himself. In the end, we have found that we can’t trust these supposedly more democratic sources of information (forums and blogs).  First, because certain of the most vocal, or profligate, members of the forums became respected resources due to their volume and not their inherent virtue or value, and secondly, because these platforms have become more corporate – either because they had to in order to survive, or because clever folks realized they could get payment or free stuff from brands in return for posting about them on their Internet sites.  So our poor iGent today is more in peril than ever.  There is more information than ever before, but how much of it is reliable?

FTDF: You are known for being a keen reader and great writer, do you believe that now with the emergence of microblogging such as tumblr iGents tend to focus more on image than on writings so that most iGents nowadays are just copycats who are not that knowledgeable and thus just as easily influenced as any fashion victim out there? Or at least not as knowledgeable as the first generation of iGents who were probably more interested in finding their personal style rather than just emulating someone else’s.

RJ: I’m flattered you think I’m a great writer.  Reactions from my readers at the former A Suitable Wardrobe blog were entertainingly mixed, to say the least.

I’m also thinking of starting a tumblr for those self-indulgent exhibitionistic moments.  A number of my clothing-obsessed friends and e-friends have them, many are rather wonderful, like those of Paul-Lux or my friend Christophe.

Photo part of the shoot for rakehound latest editionI am reluctant to refer to the entire population of men seeking discussion or validation about clothing online as iGents.  Is that what it has come to?  Has the Académie Française OKed that expansion of definition?  Still, your question highlights an interesting point. In the early days, which were no Eden or Arcadia, there were far fewer men interested in talking about clothing, online or anywhere.  In the ensuing 12 years, #menswear and men’s clothing have become very fashionable discussion points. So the population is far greater, and broader, than it used to be. It is more permissible to be interested in men’s clothing than it was. This upsurge really first began to be felt around 2007, and certainly has not let up since then. The enormous growth of tumblrs and so on is both a result and a cause of this. Thus, it goes without saying that this newer generation is not necessarily as obsessive about knowledge and history as some of the early adopters were.

I cannot say that we were chiefly interested in finding our personal style. I think at that time we were happy to find a few kindred spirits. It was, at the time, astonishing to find that peer group. That first generation was the ones who were least aware of their being iGents, and came with their own creepy hangups and prejudices that influenced what made iGent, the subfamilies like the Colonel, with creepy politics and racial views, and so on. A great deal of sartorial conservatism reflected personal political conservatism. And nowadays some of those who were knowledgeable have left or moved on to trying to monetize that knowledge, while those who are left may have chosen to interact differently than in the past.

What your question also suggests is that the new interest in men’s clothing on many people’s parts may have less depth. Certainly, there are still new true believers coming on board, but with interest in men’s clothing being fashionable, many people are coming on without that baggage. In any event, current fashion for the flashy (#sprezz, and so on) has led to a strange homogeneity and a common and spurious lexicon of words they have rendered meaningless through misuse and creative bankruptcy.

FTDF: Do you believe that due to the emergence of blogs and microblogs, the forums have less influence nowadays?

RJ: I have no idea if forums have less influence now; I don’t follow them with enough technical knowledge or diligence to tell. I have the impression that forum readership has steadily increased over the years.  Many people come to the forums to discuss things that they have seen or read on those blogs or microblogs, by which I suppose you mean tumblr, Instagram and so on. Blogging and microblogging have been boons to those who seek particular attention and commercialize themselves, creating a personal brand and using their readership to market items they receive for free or through some other commercial relationship.The extent of my artistic talent is riffing on a Batman meme.People want to see pictures of nice things and read reassuring, flattering nonsense about high-flown concepts.  Most blogs with “gentleman” in the title cater to that.

Sources: google image, paul-lux.tumblr.com

Vintage Menswear N°7

Septième épisode de notre série d’articles consacrée au Vintage masculin avec, là encore, 3 pièces particulièrement intéressantes: d’abord une varsity jacket des années 30, un manteau croisé Mackinaw de 1943 et enfin une paire de boots des années 30 de la Gendarmerie royale du Canada.

Sports & Leisure: Varsity Jacket – Hercules – 1930’s

Hercules est devenue l’une des marques workwear les plus cotées pendant la première moitié du 20ième siècle, notamment pour ses chemises chambray et ses sur-pantalons. La marque était de fait beaucoup portée par des ouvriers dans l’armement US lors de la Seconde guerre mondiale. Appartenant au groupe SEARS, la marque était également connue pour ses systèmes de chauffage, ses assurances, etc… Bref! Elle touchait vraiment à tout.hercules varsity jacket vintage showroom

Sous le nom Hercules, d’autres types de produits ont été créés comme cette varsity jacket type « letterman » avec son corps en laines, ses manches en cuir de cheval et sa poche poitrine en forme de ballon de football américain. Ce blouson ne comporte cependant pas la fameuse chenille letter; on ne peut donc pas véritablement parler de letterman jacket. Pour plus d’information sur le sujet, vous pouvez consulter notre article traitant des varsity letters.

Military: Mackinaw Jacket – A. Whyman ltd for US Army – 1943

La veste Mackinaw ou jeep jacket est typiquement associée à l’US Army pour laquelle elle a été créée. Sa première version est apparue vers la fin de la Première guerre mondiale, s’inspirant probablement d’un patronage assez courant pour les manteaux de la fin du 19ième/début du 20ième siècle. Son nom « Mackinaw » provient du Détroit de Mackinac (détroit reliant les lacs Huron et Michigan) et ce modèle fut très vite adopté par les bûcherons et les chasseurs de cette région du Nord des Etats-Unis. Entre workwear et military wear, il n’est pas rare que les frontières soient poreuses, tant la solidité et le côté fonctionnel sont des éléments prépondérants pour l’une et l’autre de ces catégories.BRITISH_MADE_MACKINAW_COAT_(WWII) vintage showroom

La première version de la Mackinaw Jacket datant de la Première guerre mondiale a été réadaptée en 1938 et intégrée à l’uniforme d’hiver de l’US Army; elle est désormais réalisée à partir du classique canvas de coton vert et doublée en laine type « blanket ». Plusieurs versions ont ensuite vu le jour: en 1942, la Mackinaw Jacket ne présentait pas de col châle en laine et le dernier modèle sorti en avril 1943 ne comportait pas de ceinture (sans doute en raison des restrictions imposées en tant de guerre).

Tous les Mackinaw n’ont pas été fabriqués aux Etats-Unis. Certains ont été réalisés sous licence au Royaume-Uni. C’est le cas de celui-ci justement; les boutons réalisés en plastique sont un signe de sa fabrication britannique.

Workwear: Riding Boots – Royal Canadian Mounted Police – 1930’sriding boots vintage showroom

Ces bottes à bout droit, aux lacets à la fois fonctionnels pour ceux du devant et décoratifs pour ceux du côté, faisaient partie intégrante de l’uniforme de la Gendarmerie royale du Canada (Royal Canadian Mounted Police), uniforme composé d’un pantalon bleu nuit à galon jaune sur le côté, d’un chapeau type « stetson » à large bord, d’un ceinturon baudrier de cuir appelé Sam Browne et d’une veste sergée rouge. Evidemment, cet uniforme n’était qu’une tenue d’apparat.police montée canada

Ses différents éléments sont antérieurs à la formation de la Gendarmerie royale en 1920, et étaient déjà portés par la Police montée du Nord-Ouest  fondée en 1873. Cette force de police était alors équipée d’un mélange de surplus militaire britannique et d’uniformes de l’US Cavalry. La Gendarmerie royale du Canada a elle même été formée consécutivement à l’association de la Dominion Police et de la Police montée du Nord-Ouest.

Pour la petite histoire, leur statut « royal » leur a été conféré par le Roi Edouard VII pour services rendus lors de la Seconde Guerre des Boers (1899-1902) opposant l’Empire britannique à la République Sud-Africaine du Transvaal.

Souce: Vintage Menswear

(Same) Old adverts from Ralph Lauren

A la manière de ce que nous avions fait avec Tommy Hilfiger (voire notre article « Tommy Hilfiger VS Tommy Hilfiger) voici un petit « rappel » de certaines campagnes de pub de Ralph Lauren allant des années 70 aux années 90.

Ralph Lauren - Spring 1987

Ralph Lauren – Spring 1987

Contrairement à notre article sur T. Hilfiger, pas la peine ici d’opposer Ralph Lauren à Ralph Lauren. En effet, à part les coupes – plus fitées aujourd’hui, on le voit notamment aux têtes d’épaule des costumes  – et les définitions des photos, on peut reconnaître à R.L. une certaine constance s’agissant de l’esprit de ses collections et, par conséquent, de ses publicités.

Ralph Lauren - 1979

Ralph Lauren – 1979

Chaps by Ralph Lauren - 1983

Chaps by Ralph Lauren – 1983

Dungarees by RL 1988

Dungarees by RL 1988

Ralph Lauren - 1988

Ralph Lauren – 1988

Ralph Lauren - 1988 (source: muffyaldrich.com)

Ralph Lauren – 1988 (source: muffyaldrich.com)

Ralph Lauren - 1988 (muffyaldrich.com)

Ralph Lauren – 1988 (muffyaldrich.com)

Ralph Lauren - 1988 (muffyaldrich.com)

Ralph Lauren – 1988 (muffyaldrich.com)

Ralph Lauren - 1988 (muffyaldrich.com)

Ralph Lauren – 1988 (muffyaldrich.com)

Ralph Lauren - 1988 (muffyaldrich.com)

Ralph Lauren – 1988 (muffyaldrich.com)

Ralph Lauren (University Club) - 1991

Ralph Lauren (University Club) – 1991

Ralph Lauren Advert 1994

Ralph Lauren - 1995

Ralph Lauren – 1995

Ralph Lauren - Mid 70s

Ralph Lauren – Mid 70s

Les Oxford Bags

193320oxford20bagsPetit clin d’œil aux Oxford Bags, ces pantalons affreusement larges qui ont un moment fait fureur au début des Années 1920. Le nom provient d’ailleurs de l’Université d’Oxford, où les étudiants les avaient adoptés.oxford bags1

Nous l’avons déjà dit à plusieurs reprises, c’est une erreur de penser que tous les hommes portaient des pantalons très larges dans les Années 1920 (les Oxford Bags ont d’ailleurs sans doute contribué à forger cette légende) et il n’était pas si rare de trouver des pantalons à bas étroit à cette époque.william stanley moorefashion1920s

Les bas de pantalon à l’époque faisaient généralement 25 cm. A titre de comparaison, aujourd’hui, les hommes préfèrent des pantalons à 18 cm / 20 cm dans le bas.oxfordbags3

Les Oxford Bags quant à eux pouvaient atteindre les 50 cm de largeur de bas…! Comme quoi, notre époque n’a pas l’apanage des modes aussi caricaturales que fugaces…DSC04320
Oxford bags trousers c. 1920