Archives de Tag: made in the USA

Marshall Anthony Testé et Approuvé

Marshall Anthony

Il y a deux semaines, Caron Gabriel, designer de Marshall Anthony que nous avions interviewé il y a quelques mois, a eu la gentillesse de nous offrir à chacun de nous deux une cravate afin que nous testions les produits de la collection Automne/Hiver 2013.

P3P5J’ai pour ma part choisi une cravate sept plis, tartan bleu marine en crêpe de laine. Je laisserai à chacun de vous le soin de juger de la pertinence esthétique de ce choix que je porte ici avec une tenue plutôt décontractée. En revanche, concernant le produit en lui même, je dois dire qu’il est excellent. En effet, contrairement à beaucoup de cravates qui sont présentées et vendues comme étant, à tort, des sept plis, celle-ci en est une vraie à savoir qu’elle ne comporte aucune triplure. La main est donc très agréable et c’est donc un plaisir de la nouer. Elle est par ailleurs roulottée main et sa qualité de finition n’a rien à envier aux marques et aux faiseurs les plus réputés dans le domaine. En revanche, l’absence de keeper, même si je ne m’en sers jamais, pourra être considérée comme gênante pour certains. C’est sans doute le seul petit bémol que je peux trouver à dire sur ce produit, car pour ce qui est du rapport qualité/prix, à 125$ pour une cravate de cette qualité, il est tout simplement très bon.V3

Quant à moi, j’ai choisi une cravate 5 plis en laine à motif prince-de-galles gris et bleu. Comme celle de PAL, je la porte essentiellement au sein de tenues sport de type cardigan ou pull col V. Néanmoins, il m’est arrivé de la porter avec mon costume en flanelle grise (voir la tenue ici ). Elle est très souple mais d’une largeur suffisante, ce qui permet de réaliser un noeud relativement structuré, avec une double "goutte d’eau". S’agissant du motif, je considère qu’il est assez rare de trouver de belles cravates à motif, notamment prince-de-galles ou tartan, or ce sont 2 motifs que j’affectionne particulièrement. Au-delà de ce choix esthétique, je corrobore les propos de PAL.: cette cravate est d’un excellent rapport/qualité prix et, pour faire écho à notre billet sur le Pitti Uomo 83, Marshall Anthony est une de ces jeunes marques – n’en déplaise aux passéistes – qui s’efforcent de proposer des produits de qualité à des prix abordables.

Marshall Anthony, testé et approuvé par FTDF.

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Classé dans Marques / Brands

Dehen 1920, made in Portland

Depuis quelques temps, la grosse maille "redevient relativement à la mode" pour peu que cette expression ait le moindre sens. Beaucoup d’enseignes en proposent aujourd’hui, mais non contentes de vous tirer dessus la plupart vous propose un produit de qualité médiocre qui contient suffisamment de polyamide et d’acrylique pour vous faire prendre feu à la moindre étincelle.

Mais peu importe, intéressons nous plutôt à Dehen, fabricant américain spécialisé dans la maille et les métiers à tisser, créé en 1920 par une famille d’immigrés allemands. Ce fabricant qui a fait beaucoup de private label pour des marques américaines et japonaises propose des produits portant sa propre griffe qui sont d’une qualité remarquable, certes pas donnés, mais toujours faits en Oregon, dans les règles de l’art. Grâce à la presse japonaise qui en parle depuis déjà plusieurs années, la marque suscite de plus en plus d’intérêt, ce qui aboutit à des collaborations, avec des personnages un peu plus  flamboyants tels que Mark Mcnairy, que vous pouvez notamment retrouver à Paris, chez Starcow.

6 Commentaires

Classé dans Marques / Brands

Brooks Brothers Black Fleece F/W 2012

Voici les premières images de la collection Black Fleece Automne/Hiver 2012 qui présente quelques pièces et étoffes intéressantes, mais dont la mise en scène est tout de même assez fade.

Source photos: Black Fleece

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Classé dans Marques / Brands

Interview with Michael Bastian

We are proud to present to you an interview with the American designer Michael Bastian who designs for GANT and Barneys and owns his own brand Michael Bastian.

Interview en français.

Credit: Raul Tovar

For The Discerning Few: You grew up in Rochester, New York in the seventies/eighties. How has it influenced your designs and your vision of menswear?

Michael Bastian: I would say I always go back to that place and that period every season. The men there always wore a more “deep woods” and rugged version of preppy: lots of corduroy, technical gear, down vests, work boots, flannel shirts with knit ties and a navy blazer. It’s still how I think guys look best.

Japanese style: a rugged version of preppy

FTDF: How did you dress when you were in your twenties?

Michael Bastian: I think I’ve always dressed pretty much the same way I dress today: a mix of casual sports stuff with more tailored pieces. All kind of mixed up and unstudied.

MB by Patrick McMullan

FTDF: What does preppy stand for as far as you are concerned?

Michael Bastian: I think “preppy” is just a fast and easy word to apply to classic American style – which at its best, is a mix of a bunch of stuff – classic Brooks Brothers, sports influences, military influences. But the most important thing is how it is worn: it should always look approachable and not look too thought out.

FTDF: How long do you think this preppy moment we are in is going to last?

Michael Bastian: Preppy never really goes away. I think it just sometimes get pushed to the back when the world becomes obsessed with brands and logos and things like that. Preppy is always more about the person in the clothes than the clothes themselves. The clothes themselves are actually very simple, so personal style becomes more important.

FTDF: Would you agree that every designer is influenced by a particular period? If so what is yours?

Michael Bastian: I think everyone becomes fascinated by the era when they were just becoming aware of style, but were too young to actually participate in any of the fun stuff. You always go back to that era and try to relive it as an adult. It always holds a certain attraction. For me it’s the late 70s and early 80s: post Studio 54, but pre-grunge.

FTDF: You have your own line/brand, MBNYC, but you also design for GANT and for Barneys, how do you manage to keep them separate?

Michael Bastian: Sometimes it’s hard to keep them separate, because I’m one person and I like what I like, but if I try to think of a different guy for each line it helps me.  For example with my own line Michael Bastian, I always personalize it and do what I want to wear myself right now.

Michael Bastian

For GANT by Michael Bastian, I think of who I was (or wanted to be) when I was in my 20s.

GANT by MB (2011)

GANT by MB (2011) – John Esposito

GANT by MB (2010) – CJ R.E. Ramos

GANT by MB (2012)

For Barneys, that guys is just the dressed up version of the MB guy.

Barneys by Michael Bastian

Barneys by Michael Bastian

FTDF: What are the 5 or 10 garments every preppy guy must have in his wardrobe?

Michael Bastian: 5-pocket corduroy jeans, navy cashmere crewneck sweater, blue and white striped oxford buttondown shirt, a down vest, a good pair of slim jeans, a navy blazer and a pair of cordovan penny loafers.

FTDF: You are famous for being inspired by movies. What movie has influenced you the most in terms of style?

Michael Bastian: That really changes every season, but I would have to say two movies, Jaws and Ordinary People really had a big influence.

FTDF: You are an American, and your designs have a strong American identity, however do you sometimes get inspired by things or people from abroad?

Michael Bastian: Well lately now that I’m spending a lot of time in Stockholm for my GANT job, I see a bit of Scandinavian style sneaking into to both collections. The people there really have their own style that is completely out of the gravitational pull of New York, Milan and Paris: cleaner and neater, but also more organic and handmade.

FTDF: You don’t seem really interested by fashion. Would you agree if we said that you were a menswear designer rather than a fashion designer?

Michael Bastian: I love this question! And you are right. There are lots of things in my life that interest me more than fashion. But personal style? That I’m endlessly fascinated by, and it often seems to be the opposite of fashion.

FTDF: What are your essentials for this summer?

Michael Bastian: A great new bathingsuit, a lightweight cashmere crewneck, a few linen-blend button down shirts, and my military shorts from Spring ’12.

We would like to thank Michael Bastian for his availability and his kindness. We would also like to thank Eugenia Gonzalez Ruiz for her crucial help.

This interview was conducted by VM & PAL. Paris, April 2012. All Rights Reserved.

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Classé dans Interviews in English

Interview with Caron Gabriel and Darhel Anthony

We are proud to present to you an interview with Darhel Anthony and Caron Gabriel of the up and coming menswear brand Marshall Anthony.

Caron Gabriel & Darhel Anthony

For The Discerning Few: Could you please tell us about your backgrounds?

Darhel Anthony: I did a stint in corporate finance before founding Marshall Anthony in 2009. I have been a neckwear craftsman and a tailoring apprentice since that time; studying the design, construction, and styling of men’s clothing.

Caron Gabriel: I was briefly in investment banking/brokerage firms until the market crash in 2008. In the subsequent years, I became heavily immersed in fashion and the possibilities within the industry.

FTDF: How would you describe your personal styles?

Darhel Anthony: Still evolving and becoming more sophisticated. I would say it is an extension of myself, traditional but very much modern and relevant.

Caron Gabriel: I concur with that sentiment.

FTDF: Do you or did you have style icons?

Darhel Anthony: Not so much icons, but I can appreciate the style of a great number of individuals; some very notable and some less. More so than just the particular clothing items, there is a certain level of charisma that supersedes the clothing in terms of style. Muhammad Ali and Johnny Depp are great examples.

Caron Gabriel: I have always admired great men. The style these men possess is a layer that compliments their aura.  Personally, there is probably little chance that I would regard a man as an icon simply because he is stylish. A gentleman’s wares/style should always be in addition to who he is.

FTDF: Do you prefer English tailoring, Italian tailoring or Classic American style?

Darhel Anthony: I have a penchant for the elegant and simple. As far as a tailoring preference, I like certain aspects of each of the styles. I appreciate the relaxed vibe of Neapolitan tailoring, the elegance of British styling for more formal occasions, and the business aesthetic of classic American style. They each have their place.

Caron Gabriel: I admire the elegance of English tailoring. I believe it is unrivaled.

FTDF: What is the story behind your brand Marshall Anthony? What was your ambition when you started in 2009?

Caron Gabriel: In 2009, it was all about fulfilling a niche in the bowtie market. As Marshall Anthony expanded into neckwear we saw a disparity in the menswear market altogether. It is that void that we intend to fill, and present something with all the character and craftsmanship of old, but revisited and refined.

FTDF: What makes a good tie, as far you are concerned?

Darhel Anthony: Good is very much a subjective term and varies greatly from one person to another, like the term luxury. A quality tie is less subjective. For proportion, a necktie should be 7-9 centimeters in width at the large blade. All natural materials should be used for the outer shell of the tie, as well as the interlining. Silk, linen, wool, and cashmere are ideal; with a wool interlining. The closing seam should always be sewn by hand, as well as the hand rolled edges. This hand craftsmanship gives the tie its character and ensures the longevity of the garment.

FTDF: Your customers can have their ties altered or turned into bowties; can you please explain that process?

Darhel Anthony: Sure, we dismantle the tie stitch by stitch carefully, in an effort not to damage the silk or other fabric of the tie. The fabric is cleaned and pressed, then used to craft a new bowtie from either a custom pattern or one of our staple patterns. We also offer a tapering service to slim down wider neckties.

FTDF: Who is the Marshall Anthony Man?

Caron Gabriel: The Marshall Anthony Man is a gentleman between the age of 18 and 49 with an interest in menswear with a modern yet classical foundation.

FTDF: Could you walk us through your new S/S 2012 collection?

Caron Gabriel: The majority of our current collection focuses on the idea of "distinguished casual". It is our belief that a gentleman should always be dressed as such, but not all occasions require corporate business attire. Raw silk and Linen were the fabrics chosen to center Marshall Anthony’s S/S 2012 Collection around. All of our raw silk ties can be dressed up or down. The most classical colors we currently offer are black, indigo, evergreen, and royal navy; with natural and taupe being great colors for the summer months. Finally we some interesting shades of color that very much represent a Spring color palette but retain their masculinity; some examples are the taupe, blue steel, and teal raw silk ties. 

FTDF: What inspires you on a daily basis?

Darhel Anthony: Improving upon the foundation of the day before, seeing other people who are extremely passionate about what they do, and the many forms of artistic creation; be it a song or architecture. I see some pretty inspiring things every day.

Caron Gabriel: One of my deepest fears is primitivity of the mind. This fear inspires me to learn more and desire to become and achieve more than I previously considered a possibility. One of my favorite sayings is “Esse Quam Videri”, which means “to be, rather than to seem.” Achieving the true meaning of this saying is a personal quest of mine.

FTDF: What do you think of the menswear business nowadays? What can Marshall Anthony bring to the table?

Darhel Anthony: Menswear has become very trendy, even the market that is particularly interested in classically tailored clothing is becoming driven by trends. There are many things that are fresh and good looking that lack utility and vice versa. Marshall Anthony will offer garments possessing quality design that is rooted in classic style. Our garments will transcend current fashion and provide the wearer with more utility than its predecessors. Quality craftsmanship and construction, to maximize comfort, longevity, and an appealing silhouette will be paramount in Marshall Anthony garments. We have a committed focus on fit and proportion. We intend to revisit all classic menswear items and see how we can improve upon them.

FTDF: What is elegance as far as you are concerned?

Darhel Anthony: Elegance is simplicity.

FTDF: Where do you see yourselves and the brand in five years?

Caron Gabriel: Constantly learning and working diligently to improve upon our craft and manifesting our dream for the world that is Marshall Anthony.

We would like to thank Caron Gabriel and Darhel Anthony for their professionalism, their kindness and their knowledge.

This interview was conducted by PAL & VM for For The Discerning Few. Paris, April 2012. All rights reserved.

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Classé dans Interviews in English